Heather Haviland didn't need to take on more work. As the owner of Sweet Mosaic, a patisserie, and a partner of Lucky's Café, Haviland's day planner is pretty much booked solid. When she isn't baking the breads and pastries for the café, she's crafting custom wedding cakes for longtime clients. In her spare time, Haviland traverses the state in search of the finest locally milled grain, farm-fresh eggs and seasonal produce. (Did I mention the community garden she helps manage?) So the decision to launch Saturday and Sunday brunch at Lucky's wasn't something she was absolutely certain she wanted to pursue.

"It started with me just making a few items on a Saturday and offering them for free to some customers," Haviland explains. "I asked them if Lucky's was a place they would consider for brunch."

Lucky's is precisely the kind of place one would consider for weekend brunch. It is already where many Tremonters begin their day, with fresh-brewed coffee, local and national newspapers, and free wi-fi. Its uber-cozy environs and off-the-beaten-path locale have made it a neighborhood favorite for years. But when it came to breakfast sustenance, house-baked scones and breakfast sandwiches were as hearty as things got. And while those items are sufficient for hectic weekday morns, lazy weekends require the big guns.

A fanatic for quality ingredients, Haviland sources eggs from Oberlin, cheese, milk and produce from Ohio farms, and grass-fed beef from the loins of happy cows. Haviland bakes all the breads, makes waffles from scratch and blends her own granola. She even tops local bacon with a seductive pecan glaze. The fact that she accomplishes all of this from a 150-square-foot kitchen is downright Herculean.

Like weekday breakfast and lunch service, weekend brunch involves placing your order at the counter, paying and grabbing a table. With nothing more than a chalkboard menu at the register, it can get a little awkward if more than a few people arrive at once. But patience rarely seems to be in short supply at Lucky's.

Brunch items change by the week, but a few staples and favorites have emerged. For those of us who like to smoosh everything together on the plate, there is the aptly named Shipwreck ($7.95). Golden brown potato cubes, scrambled eggs, bacon, white cheddar and a fistful of seasonal veggies are all thrown together into a three-dimensional Jackson Pollock painting. The dish is a delicious disaster, served with two slices of the best buttered toast in town.

Breakfast burritos ($8.25) take on a Mexican flavor, thanks to a zesty, smoky ranchero sauce made with guajillo and ancho chiles. The flour tortillas are stuffed with scrambled eggs and veggies and dressed with the dark brown sauce. For this dish, the fried potatoes are off to the side. Recent menu items have also included a cheddar-scallion scone topped with scrambled eggs and sausage gravy, and sweet corn waffles topped with strawberry-rhubarb compote and honey whipped cream. Pork sausage, which is handmade by a local chef, is available as a side dish.

Lunch at Lucky's is a build-your-own affair. Customers construct sandwiches by selecting from a list of breads, meats, cheeses and toppings. All sandwiches cost $5.75 and include chips and a pickle. The artisan-style breads include focaccia, multi-grain and rustic Italian. Meats range from a thick slice of grass-fed meatloaf to grilled chicken breast. Toppings run the gamut from lettuce, tomato and raw onion to kalamata olive spread, hummus and caramelized onions. Sandwiches are finished on a panini press, leaving them warm, thin and crisp. You can't go wrong with any combination, but I'm particularly fond of meatloaf on focaccia with cheddar and caramelized onion.

Whenever you visit, and whatever you order, no meal should end without a trip to the mouth-watering pastry case. Haviland honed her sweet skills by traveling around the country and working with talented craftspeople. With no formal education, she was invited to give a graduation speech at the renowned Culinary Institute of America. Her 40-layer cashew crepe torte is the stuff of nocturnal fantasies.

Sweet Mosaic, the pastry end of the outfit, operates from the same closet-size kitchen. During the week, the space serves as the bake shop. Come Friday evening, all the baking equipment is removed to make room for the waffle irons and induction burners needed for weekend brunch. Sunday night, the switch is reversed.

It is a labor of love to be sure, but Haviland can't seem to help herself when it comes to taking on projects that will please her customers.

"I'm blessed to be this busy," she says. "I'm certainly not complaining."